The New York Times investigation
The glorious Made in Italy more and more low-cost, so as to make it appear Puglia (and not only) as Bangladesh. At least for New York Times. In a long investigation, the newspaper accuses Italian fashion and its shady areas, made up of “thousands of people”, especially women, who work from home by weaving “without contract or insurance” precious fabrics to be allocated to the big names .
The declarations of the president of Camera Moda Carlo Capasa
The president of Camera Moda Carlo Capasa replies to the attack and judges the investigation of “a shameful and instrumental attack“. “They attacked these brands in an unworthy manner – says Capasa – for this we will prepare a joint note with the lawyers. If they found a crime there is an obligation to report, why didn‘t they do It?” asks Capasa, for whom “our contracts are all to protect workers“.
“New York Times is an instrumental attack that is born – says the president of Camera Moda – without having done a real investigation, I am from Puglia and Puglia is not Bangladesh, they cite unknown sources and they say that in Italy we haven’t a minimum wage law and this is serious.Our – he underlines – are serious companies, if the subcontracts have done some stupidity this should be pursued, but we all share the same contract for the protection of workers. If then they wanted to demonize the housework I find It wrong, makes sense as long as be well paid, we‘ll replay to NewYork Times heavily“,announces Capasa. The reason is that “we are the country that has done more for these rights, the first to prosecute abuses, there isn‘t connivance of Italian companies because they don‘t need them, we don‘t need to exploit anyone“. According to Capasa, there is a reason why this article came out today: “In Milan, the Fashion Week begins with the green carpet, we‘re good and this annoys“.
The reactions of the stylists
“No one is healthy but everyone does his best, to be angry only with fashion is wrong“: this is the comment of the designer Miuccia Prada. “All companies have codes and inspectors but the real world – she underlines – is more complicated, there is always someone who gets bribed“. Of course, “fashion has its faults, but I’m sure that companies from other sectors will do even worse. This is not a perfect world and we are all guilty, problems are everywhere“.
The stylist Luisa Beccaria reveals: “The problem of containing costs exists, the market imposes price ranges that cannot be exceeded. A hand on the conscience should also put the end consumer in. Once the mass market was combined with a taste bad and those who had to dress in a certain way spent more.Now even the low brands make you live an experience, they use great photographers and have nice shops. The market excludes you if you do not work in a certain way. Bulgaria or China – she goes on to say – The fact that they use workers in Southern Italy seems to me to be good news: we specialize in the treatment of raw materials to distinguish ourselves from low cost giants or luxury groups, which cost the most for advertising campaigns and for the rents of stores all over the world for the quality, Fortunately, customers are becoming more and more attentive to the problem “.
Here’s what NYT writes
“Italy – writes NYT – doesn‘t have a national minimum wage, but about 5-7 euros per hour is considered an appropriate standard by many unions.In extremely rare cases, a highly qualified worker can earn up to 8-10 euro per hour“.
But home workers, such as Puglia seamstresses, earn much less and, in the cases, 1 to 2 Euros per hour. There are no official data on labor without a contract, but the survey of the US newspaper has collected “evidence on at least 60 women who work alone in the Puglia region without a regular contract in the clothing sector“.